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Here’s a pic of what I’d use.

Dahammer, think your correct, the fuse box under the dash looks pretty filled up , yes there are some missing areas, but could check if one side of an open fuse area has power there and use a fuse tap with a fuse in the holder (can't find a photo of the ones I use at work) I'll have to search...

these vehicles have had a problems with battery drains, our first 3 vehicles we built, was from ground up except for the chassis. that came done from the pilot plant, but the bodies we put every bolt and nut ran the harnesses. so I figured it was due to the level of the harness, we also had one...

that harness the goes across the top of the firewall/cowl is attached with a variety of fasteners, push pins, and a couple of 6mm bolts that slide into the hard plastic covering for the harness. yes its a cheap way but that's what an engineer signed off on, same for ram trucks.

well I personally I'm not. we house all the show vehicles for the 4 major auto shows, and other events. the 2 "L"s that got reveled in New York came from the shop, and those were built before the date. these are early pilot vehicles, we tore them apart, repaint, and added couple things the...

Thanks Kate, just wondered if the tsb included the L, I'm sure before it goes to the next big event SWAT team will update, or I'll make sure they do. thanks again.

Kate, does this apply to the (L) models also?? have the first one for shows and I need to unplug them before we put it on transporter. guess all the engineers I've talked with are correct, a software update fixes everything. lmao

that is ALWAYS a problem on GWs!! to me the wagoner back end is the best of the 2, the front is the same, all that satin chrome doesn't line up or just doesn't look correct. the satin part on the lower headlamp area, sits flush on the grille, but has a nice rat hole gap along the headlamp...

take a trim stick, and carefully pop the corners out, 9 times outta 10 you'll lose one of the white clips and the tab that holds the clip gets broken.....everytime!

you can try a reset, disconnect the battery, then with the key fob, lock and unlock or the drivers master window switch, then I usually hit the button on the overhead console to open and then hit the button on the rear 1/4 trim to close. sometimes yes, sometimes no. but as an engineer told us...

alos @Gatzu, the little spears are tricky to come off the mirrors, but its not bad, the inner one you can tap inward and "roll" out.

have the body shop order the caps in primed, then paint them black, I know centerline had them 2 weeks ago.

heard there is a software up date for those, but I don't believe it. we've had issues with the left seat, and had to get a replacement unit, now I have the same problem on the right side. but when someone comes and looks at it. it works as designed, maybe it'll mess up in New York at the press...

these things are the worst, had to install for a commercial, that tool takes too long to install. could be a better design.

the vehicle needs to be rolling slightly when lowering to aero I know this, not just raising or lowering just sitting, the wheels/tires need to "slide" slightly on pavement, in the shop with painted floor it "speaks" when lowering the vehicle.

just install the cooler in a new unit at work, be prepared to do a lot of work. remove the pass. seat, you can remove dr. side also to make getting the console out easier. then tear down half of the console swap out for cooler, then the heavy lifting continues, if you have the rear console...

you can try and disconnecting the battery(s) waiting couple minutes, reconnect, hit lock/unlock on fob, then open lift gate and try the seats. may or may not work, we had issues with our show vehicles until we new replacements for Chicago auto show.